Posts Tagged ‘skin’

Should You Avoid Fragrance in Your Skin Products?

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Sere says…Hi Brains! I’m an Italian girl who’s trying to do her best to understand something in the complicated world of skin care. I read Paula Begoun’s opinion about fragrance, and from what I could understand, she’s quite severe. I mean she says we should definitely go for truly fragrance-free cosmetics, since fragrance, both synthetic and organic, cause irritation. Even when we cannot actually see skin reactions (like redness etc..), still it’s taking place underneath the skin’s surface, leading to long-term skin damage. So..that is what i wanted to know from you..is it true we should avoid fragrance in cosmetics such as face creams etc, even if we’re not allergic to any of the components of fragrance?

Left Brain smells something fishy
While we love the Cosmetic Cop, I think in this case Paula is overstating the fragrance problem here. You can safely use products with fragrance as long as you are not allergic / sensitive to the components.

What’s wrong with fragrance?

The truth is many people are sensitive to different ingredients found in fragrances. Fragrances can be made up of from 75 to over 100 ingredients so manufacturers aren’t required to list all the component materials. However, they are supposed to list the ingredients that most commonly cause allergic reaction. Here is that list.

Most common fragrance allergens

1. Amyl cinnamal
2. Amylcinnamyl alcohol
3. Benzyl alcohol
4. Benzyl salicylate
5. Cinnamyl alcohol
6. Cinnamal
7. Citral
8. Coumarin
9. Eugenol
10. Geraniol
11. Hydroxycitronellal
12. Hydroxymethylpentylcyclohexenecarboxaldehyde
13. Isoeugenol
14. Anisyl alcohol
15. Benzyl benzoate
16. Benzyl cinnamate
17. Citronellol
18. Farnesol
19. Hexylcinnamaldehyde
20. Lilial
21. d-Limonene
22. Linalool
23. Methyl heptine carbonate
24. g-Methylionone

If you happen to be allergic to one of these ingredients and it is in your product, then you may experience inflammation at the skin surface and below. This isn’t because the ingredient is penetrating the surface, rather it is triggering a chemical response at the surface of your skin.

However, most people are not allergic to the ingredients in fragrances at the levels they are used. So, if the fragrance doesn’t contain an ingredient to which you are sensitive, then there is no proof that it will cause you problems.

Marketing Strategy

It certainly isn’t wrong to tell people that they should buy products that are fragrance free because even if you are not allergic to a particular compound, less exposure to chemicals is better. Sometimes repeated exposure to a compound can cause you to become allergic.

However, the advice for everyone to avoid all fragrances is not based on science. It’s being overly cautious. It’s a bit like when doctors tell pregnant women they shouldn’t drink any alcohol even though there is no proof that drinking a small amount is in any way harmful.

It also seems strangely coincidental that one of the marketing claims for Paula’s Choice products is that they are “100% fragrance free”.

Beauty Brains bottom line

While many people are allergic to fragrance ingredients and would do well to avoid products with fragrances in them, there is no reason that everyone should avoid fragranced products. Fragrances make the product experience more enjoyable and if they don’t bother your skin, feel free to keep using them.

Are you allergic or sensitive to fragrances? How do you feel about them in your beauty products? Leave a message and tell us what you think.

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Does Neutrogena Cleanser/Mask Work Better If I Leave It On?

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Kalisa’s Question…What can you tell me about Neutrogena Deep Clean Invigorating Cleanser/Mask? Specifically, is there any additional benefit to my skin of using it as mask (leaving it on for three minutes) as opposed to merely washing my face with it?

The Right Brain’s Answer:
To our surprise, Neutrogena does indeed recommend that this cleanser can be left on and used as a mask. We quote:

This revolutionary formula works as a daily cleanser or 3-minute mask. It foams instantly to dissolve dirt, oil and makeup. Skin tingles as the cooling lather deep cleans to leave skin feeling energized and shine-free for hours. For more intensive cleansing, use it as a mask. As it dries, you’ll feel it working deep within the skin’s surface to absorb shine-causing oil and pore-clogging impurities.

Why do we find this surprising? Let’s look at the ingredients, ignoring preservatives, fragrance, etc., and just focusing on the functional ingredients:

Ingredients that clean your skin:
Methyl Gluceth 20, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Lauryl Glucoside, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate, Polyquaternium-7

Ingredients that form a film on your skin and feel like a mask:
Polyethylene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Wax

Based on the presence of the mask type ingredients, this does look different than a typical cleanser – it appears to be designed to have a mask like feel to it. But how good of a mask is this? Typical masks contain clay or some kind of film forming polymer that really tighten the skin as it dries. Becaus this formula is different and because it contains so many cleansing ingredientes that will tend to soften the film so we doubt formula one would give you that strong tightening effect. Based on looking at the formula, our guess is this product would be a really good cleanser but it wouldn’t be a great mask.

But our real concern is about leaving this much surfactant on your face for so long. Surfactants, even relatively mild ones like this formula uses, can irritate skin. This product also contains menthol which is a known irritant.

The Beauty Brain’s bottom line:

Based on looking at the ingredients, we think that the risk of drying out your skin would outweigh any potential benefits. That’s our opinion without doing any testing so take it with the proverbial grain of salt. If anyone has tried this, let us know.

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Is Olay Pro-X As Good As A Dermatologist?

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Modistmoz asks…I’ve just begun looking into starting an anti aging regiment for my skin (I am 30 with very fair skin). I’m working hard to research products to find the best fit. I was wondering what the Beauty Brains has to say about the new Oil of Olay Professional Pro-X line. Is it any good?

The Right Brain replies:

Is Pro-X any good? According to one study, it’s as good as prescription anti-aging from a dermatologist. Maybe.

Doubtful data?

According to Cosmeticsdesign testing done by Procter Gamble, makers of Olay, shows that its Pro-X line performs as well as a tretinoin-based prescription treatment. (Tretinoin is also known as Retin-A.) Now, we can guess what you’re thinking: Yeah, but it’s P&G’s test that shows that it works! Can we trust them? The answer is yes, if the study was designed and executed properly. The real question is exactly what was the test designed to prove? Test data can be used to support many different conclusions depending on the study design.

X-rated action

In this case, P&G had expert graders look at pictures of the panelists after treatment with both product regimines and rate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. After 6 months the graders rated both products as performing similarly. But since the Pro-X treatment regimen is moisturizing while the tretinoin treatment tends to be irritating, the tretinoin dosage started low and was ramped up over time. One could argue that this methodology gave the Pro-X product a head start in the treatment, but P&G points out that this application process is consistent with how people actually use tretinoin in real life to help reduce irritation. So, their conclusion is that “prescription efficacy for improving fine lines can be achieved with a cosmetics regimen as well as being better tolerated by patients.”

The Beauty Brains bottom line

If you like the way tretinoin makes your skin look but you find it irritating, you might have better luck with the Olay Pro-X line. But don’t expect miracles.

What do YOU think? Have you had luck with any wrinkle fighting anti-aging skin treatments? Leave a comment and share your experiences with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

Source: British Journal of Dermatology

2010, Issue 162, Pages 647 – 654
A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamde/peptide/retinyl propionate products regimen versus a prescription 0.02 percent tretinoin product regimen
J.J.J. Fu, G.G. Hillebrand, P. Raliegh, J. Li, M.J.Marmor, V. Bertucci, P.E. Grimes, S.H. Mandy, M.I. Perez, S.H. Weinkle, J.R. Kaczvinsky

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Is Tobacco Good For Your Skin?

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Penguinbiter pleads…How does cigarette smoke cause wrinkles?

The Right Brain responds:

When Penguinbiter (BTW I love that name) asked this question in our Forum, Jami was quick to point out several links that answered the question very nicely. I won’t repeat them here but you can find them if you click here. This research shows there’s no doubt that smoking is bad for your skin. But, it turns out that tobacco might actually be good for skin.

Tobacco road

CosmeticsDesign reports that Italian researchers have discovered a sugar-peptide found in wild tobacco plants could have anti-aging properties for skin.  This complex has antioxidant properties as well as the ability to promote collagen synthesis.

The researchers were focused on finding compounds that could protect crops from environmental stresses but they discovered that the path ways they uncovered in plants had applications to animals as well. Specifically, they found that human keratinocytes treated with this sugar-peptide mix increased expression of two sirtuin proteins which are  thought to be linked to aging.

Will tobacco farmers everywhere breathe a sigh of relief for a more healthier use for their crops? Only time will tell.

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Bag Balm: What Does It Do For Skin?

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Lydia’s lost… Ok, I know that I spend way too much time shopping online when I have this fact stuck in my head: Bag Balm is the #3 best selling beauty product on Amazon.com. What’s up with that?!? What’s in this stuff, what does it do, and do I need to buy some?

The Left Brain’s leading reply:

Bag Balm reminds me of “Mane ‘n Tail:” They are both products designed for animals that humans have adopted for their own use. That’s right, Bag Balm is actually a product intended to treat skin condition of animals.

Bombastic about Bag Balm

According to the website for Dairy Association Company, Inc, the company that makes Bag Balm, it’s been used since 1899 to keep cows from becoming chapped. I assume this means it’s used to moisturize and protect the sensitive skin of the udders. For more background on the history of Bag Balm read this USA Today article.  Just for the record, the website makes no mention of use on humans, which is not surprising since the product contains a drug active that is not approved for over the counter use on people.

Bag Balm ingredients

Since this isn’t a typical cosmetic product it doesn’t have to follow the labeling rules for cosmetics and therefore the package doesn’t have to carry a complete list of ingredients. But according to Drugstore.com I see that it contains 8-Hydroxyquinoline Sulfate at 0.3% in a petrolatum and lanolin base. Petrolatum and lanolin are both common skin care ingredients and are also used in heavy duty ointments and wound care products. The real star of the show is the 8-Hydroxyquinoline Sulfate. According to several sources such as this one, this compound is a bacteriostatic and fungistatic agent and it’s used to prepare antiseptics, deodorants, antiperspirants, and fungicides. (Personally, I’ve never seen this used in any products for humans.)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

I see Bag Balm as a product that combines excellent moisturizing ingredients with a drug active that has antiseptic properties. However, since the active agent is not approved for use on people, the company can not legally make claims in this regard. You may see benefits from using it but legally the company can only promote it for use on animals.

What do YOU think? Have you ever used Bag Balm or Mane ‘n Tail? Leave a comment and share your animalistic thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

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Do Sunless Tanners Damage Skin?

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Sonia says…Lately I’ve been using Clarins Liquid Bronze Self Tanning, and I like how it looks, but I was wondering, this sounds just too good to be true, don’t these self tanners damage the skin in the long term?

The Right Brain replies:
Don’t worry, Sonia. Self tanners use an ingredient called Dihydroxyacetone (or DHA) that creates a brownish color when it reacts with the upper layers of skin. The upper layers of skin are dead anyway and DHA doesn’t penetrate into the deeper layers so there’s really no danger. If you want more info, read our previous post on how sunless tanning works.

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Is Collagen In Coffee Good For My Skin?

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Julie says…I don’t know if it’s available in the States, but in Malasia there’s is a coffee with collagen that supposedly has anti-aging effects. Is this product really good for my skin?

The Left Brain responds:

The product that Julie is referring to is the Nestlé’s “Nescafe Body 3-in-1 Coffee with Collagen.” According to what I read it is sold only in Singapore but Nestle has experimented previously with similar products in Japan. This is one of several new Nescafe products that promote “beauty from within.” But does it really work?

Collagen quandary

On one hand, there does appear to be some science behind this. According to at least one study (Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2009 Apr 23;73(4):930-2. Epub 2009 Apr 7.) daily ingestion of collagen peptide can help control UV-B induced skin damage and photoaging.  In this particular study, subjects ingested 0.2 g of collagen peptide per kilogram of body mass per day. That’s approximately 11 grams of collagen per day for a 125 pound woman.  On the other hand, coffee doesn’t appear to be an effective way to administer that much collagen. The Nescafe product contains about 200 mg (or .2 grams) per cup, so you’d need to drink about 55 cups of coffee every day to achieve the benefits that the collagen study identified. (You’d also need to drink 26 glasses of wine to calm down from all that caffeine!)

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Based on a quick review of a single study, there does appear to be a possibility that ingesting enough of the right kind of collagen may be beneficial for your skin. But don’t fall for the marketing hype of collagen coffee.

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Self-Check For Skin Cancer

One of the most commonly diagnosed diseases is skin cancer, if you know what to look for, it can be easily detected.

You should examine your body on a monthly basis for atypical moles, unusual patches of skin, discoloration, etc. Begin in a well-lit area then start with your face and examine literally every inch of your body down to your toes.

Age Naturally and Gracefully

All that dominates our skin care market is high-tech lotions and “magical” potions that promise to bring youth to your skin.

Make yourself a fruity face masks

I remember when I was a teenager and my friends and I would try to invent our own facial mask at sleep over parties. We had so much fun coming up with such wild creations. The fun doesn’t have to stop now! There are several fruits, oils and oats out there that can be transformed into a fabulous facial mask.

Try one of the recipes below to attain silky soft skin with a healthy glow.

Avocado Addiction: is great for people with dry skin because it will help penetrate deep moisture

Ingredients

  1. Mix the avocado, honey and vinegar together and add enough sesame oil to create a spreadable consistency.
  2. Spread the mask over your cleansed face and leave on for five to ten minutes.
  3. Rinse off with warm water and pat skin dry with a soft towel.
  4. If you have toner you can apply it to the face and then apply moisturizer as usual.

The Gracious Grapefruit: this works great for oily skin and will help to clean out any excess oils

Ingredients

  1. Beat the egg white until it’s smooth and fluffy.
  2. Blend the beaten egg white, sour cream and grapefruit juice together in a bowl.
  3. Apply to your face and allow it to rejuvenate your skin for about 15 minutes.
  4. Rinse with warm water, pat softly dry and then use any toner and moisturizer as you would normally do.

So the next time you go to try out one of these facial mask, make sure to call your friends over for a full night of fun and pampering!