Posts Tagged ‘hair’

Virtual Hair Color Kiosk

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Have you ever stood in front of the hair dyes, biting your lips, unsure what color to choose? Do you think going blonde will look fake, but you’re tired of boring brown? Do you think red might suit you, but you’re just not sure? Cosmetics-Design says that EZface has begun to let their customers try out the colors before purchase. The Virtual Hair Coloration In-Store Kiosk is home to the Virtual Mirror Application, showing possible shoppers what they’d look like with the dye. The VMA takes a photo of the consumer, focusing on skin tone, facial features, and current hair color.

The company says that this will increase sales by putting more confidence into customers and allowing them to experiment more openly, with a much higher chance of success. In addition, the kiosk has the technology to track shoppers’ preferences and help them when selecting items for purchase. These kiosks, sprouting up in both North America and Europe, will come next year.

Before buying that pink, try it on for size – maybe the VMA will reveal that being a soccer mom with pink hair isn’t the most fantastic combo. Or maybe it will turn out that you look fantastic with that particular shade of fuchsia. Go for it, because you seriously have nothing to lose.

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How To Cure Itchy Scalp

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Taya’s trouble…Dear Beauty Brains, I just read up on your article about smelly scalps and wanted to know if there are any causes or solutions to itchy scalps. My sister started developing an itchy scalp several months back and it would sometimes get so itchy she would have to shower twice a day and she would also itch her hair/head in her sleep! One time she was so desperate that she put socks on her hands to stop her from itching. The weather doesn’t seem to affect it and she doesn’t produce a lot of dandruff and her hair looks normal in every way just the itching. We have checked for lice and there are none. She also had two spots on her head before this. My conclusion maybe, that we have a faulty shower – which can get really hot – and my sister and mother are the only two who for some reason can deal with hot water. Which seems to be the most plausible explanation. At first I thought that buying her some deep-cleanse shampoo would do the trick but it didn’t really work. We don’t think it’s that much of a deal unless she actually makes her scalp bleed (which thank goodness has not happened), also worried if it might weaken her hair follicles? I told her if she keeps scratching she’ll become bald.

The Left Brain responds:

Taya’s question prompted an interesting discussion in our Forum where Lindygirl and SarahF, and Vanyel pointed out that itchy scalp can have multiple causes.

Itchy scalp: causes and cures

Frequent washing with hot water can strip oils from your skin which could be contributing to the dryness. Dandruff is another common cause of itching. And of course there could be other medical conditions like psoriasis. My first suggestion is to try an anti-dandruff shampoo like Head & Shoulders, Selsun Blue, or Nizoral. The active ingredients in these products will reduce itchiness if indeed dandruff is the cause. She should specifically avoid using deep cleansing shampoos like you described – these are likely to only make the problem worse because they are “stronger” cleansers and can strip additional oils from the scalp. Reducing shampoo frequency may also be helpful. She might benefit using a dry shampoo on the days that she skips washing. (And if that doesn’t work she can always try rubbing whipping cream in her hair, as the Curly Girl Handbook suggests…)

If these steps don’t help, she should probably check with a dermatologist to rule out other skin conditions.

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The Reason Armpit Hair Doesn’t Grow Down To Your Knees

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Li longs to learn: How does hair know when to grow? When you shave your legs, it grows back but it stops growing after a certain length. If you shave it again, it will grow back to that length. What’s up with that???

The Left Brain leads her:
Li, actually your question is easy to answer once you understand two things:

3 stages of hair growth

The first thing to know is that hair goes through 3 different stages as it grows: Anagen, Catagen and Telogen phases. The Anagen stage (that’s Anagen, not Anakin!) is the stage where the hair grows like crazy. This stage can last a up to 4 to 6 years and can produce scalp hairs that grow to be almost 3 feet in length! (that’s 100 cm for our international readers). And if you think 3 feet is impressive, you ain’t seen nothin’! Human scalp hair longer than 5 feet has been reported! Yikes! We’d hate to see the bill from her stylist!

The Catagen stage follows the Anagen stage. This is basically a transitional stage which means the follicle is slowing down production of the hair, not much happens here.

The third stage is the Telogen, or resting, stage. The hair stops growing and just sits there in the follicle. When the cycle starts all over again with Anagen phase, the old hair is pushed out by the new hair. That’s one of the reasons you normally shed about 100 or so hairs each day – the old ones are getting replaced by the new ones.

Two types of hairs

Ok, second thing to understand is that there are two different types of hairs: Terminal and Vellus. Terminal are long hairs (the 3 footers we mentioned) and are thicker and have a longer growing cycle (growing season like flowers) 6 to 8 years. Meaning most of the time they are in Anagen phase. These are found on the scalp, mostly. Terminal hairs are the kind you have to cut because they get too long.

Vellus on the other hand are short hairs (a millimeter or less) they are very fine, and they have a very short life cycle, which means they spend most of the time in the Telogen phase. That also means they’ll never grow as long as scalp hair. These very fine hairs are found on “hairless” parts of the body like arms and legs. (Ok, those areas aren’t hairless, but they kind of look hairless because the hairs are so tiny and fine.)

So, to answer your question, that’s how hair knows when to grow – it’s determined by the type of hair and the stage of growth it’s in. Which of course is determined by hormones. Isn’t everything?

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The Number 1 Danger Of Mixing Your Own Cosmetics

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Crista’s question…I have a question on home made facial moisturizers. I’m a “make your own nut” with moisturizers, laundry soaps, miscellaneous cleaners, and add-ins for conditioners ( I’m big on coconut oil). Anyway enough with the jibberjabber.  I start with Biosilk fruitcocktail as a base, (here’s a strange fact I was told by a cock fighting, i.e. fighting chickens, models hair dresser that it makes a good moisturizer) and then I add coconut oil and shea butter. It works for me. Just wondering your thoughts – Is it good? Bad? None of the above?

The Right Brain’s response:

Our first thought in response to your question is: Fighting chickens have hairdressers???  You’ve GOT to write back and explain that one! But let’s get back to your question.

Do It Yourself Danger

While we applaud your do it yourself attitude, you do need to be careful when mixing your own products. The number one danger is that the home made products typically are not properly preserved against microbial growth. That’s means your product could grow bacteria or mold that could end up giving you an infection. So be careful!

But for the moment let’s go crazy and ignore that danger. Does mixing Biosilk fruit cocktail with coconut oil and shea butter make a good hair conditioner? Mmmmmaybe. Coconut oil is one of the few natural oils that will penetrat hair, so it can have some benefit if you leave it on long enough. Shea butter can be helpful as a leave-on product but it won’t do much for hair is you rinse it off. So your home made mix might not be bad for your hair but we’d be surprised if it’s better than the products you can buy.

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Do Pearl Proteins In Elvive Nutrigloss Really Work?

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Anne asks...What’s your opinion on the new LOreal Elvive Nutri Gloss? Can it really make hair shinier? What’s the truth behind the ’special pearl protein’ does it really work?

The Right Brain retorts:
Pearls are so pretty, this product MUST work better! Right? Wrong!

L’Oreal is the king of cool sounding ingredients. In addition to the pearl protein that you asked about, they also sell products with Nutrileum, Regenium XY, and EXPANSYL®. We’re not sure but we think they have a hair mask with ground up Ruby Slippers too.

All sarcasm aside, our point is that this pearl protein is just another featured ingredient used by cosmetic companies to attract your attention. That’s what Marketing is all about! L’Oreal has some very fine formulas (they have some not-so-fine ones too), but don’t believe the fairy tale they tell you about the special ingredient that makes the product work.

Some proteins can have a (minor) beneficial effect on hair IF they are the right kind and are processed so they “stick” to your hair. Quaternized wheat protein, for example, has been shown to have some conditioning effect. But most “regular” proteins won’t do anything for your hair when applied from a rinse off product.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

If you want to  splurge, try the product and see what you think. But don’t expect the “pearly gates” to open up. That’s all of our “pearls of wisdom” for this post. If we wrote anything else, we’d be “casting pearls before swine.” Hey, did you hear about the new smaller bottle of Nutrigloss? It contains “Minnie Pearl.”  But seriously, this stuff is so good you should buy extra bottles and keep them in your “Pearl Harbor.”

Ok, that’s enough bad pearl puns. We’ll stop now.

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How Safe Is Home Hair Lightening?

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Leery Locks writes… I am wondering if you could explain any differences between products to bleach/lighten hair like “Sun In” spray, drugstore purchased bleaching/lightening boxed kits and the stuff they use at salons? I have dark blonde/light brown hair and would like to lighten it and remember how easy it was to control the effect and areas of lightening with a spray in product like “Sun In” but hear it’s really harsh on the hair (but I think all lightening/bleaching stuff is supposed to be pretty harsh.) My main question is, if you want to lighten your hair is there any difference between the products results? I know there’s different shades of blonde to choose from in the boxed kits and in the salons (unlike Sun In, which you control by using less or more), but I am a little hesitant to use a boxed kit as I don’t want the same color all over. I liked how w/the spray I could apply extra in areas I wanted to highlight and enough in other areas to generally lighten, but the lure of a kit is calling, as there seem to be more color shade options. Dilemma! My other thought is if I did go with a kit that seemed to have an attractive shade can you only touch it up by using the same product later, for roots and such? Would using a different lightening product create a bad situation? As an example, say you splurge and get highlights at a salon, but can’t afford frequent salon visit touch-ups to keep it fresh. Could you get a simular looking color in a drug store kit without much worry, or are you in for a nasty surprise?!?

The Right Brain lightens up:
Leery, first of all, you need to switch to Decaf. That’s the most typing we’ve ever seen in a single question!

Lightening strikes

Lightening products like “Sun in” contain common bleaching agents, usually peroxide, at low levels. As you use the product over time, you begin to destroy some of the darker shades of melanin (the pigment that gives your hair its natural color) until your darker colors get a little more blonde. Exposure to sun can ehance the effect but basically, you’re doing a low level bleaching treatment on your hair. And yes, this does cause some damage. How much depends on how much product you apply and how often you use it.

The store-bought coloring kits use a stronger, higher level bleaching agent and, depending on the shade, they may include some oxidative colors that put a little dye back in your hair. (For example, strawberry blonde shades add back a little red color.) The same is pretty much true for the coloring treatments you get in salons.

As far as using a combination of Sun-in type products, home coloring kits, and salon coloring, well, that gets complicated. Each of these processes does damage your hair – multiple bleachings should be avoided under any circumstances if you want to avoid making your hair porous and brittle. If you are going to mix and match you should wait as long as you can between processes. We’d recommend talking to your stylist about this assuming you can trust him or her. It’s tough for us to make that kind of call without inspecting your hair.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Most importantly, be careful with all that lightening. You could end up damaging your hair pretty badly. And be sure let us know if bleached blondes have more fun.

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What’s The Best Way To Slick Back My Hair?

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Jimmy’s just curious…I’m a guy with thick, poofy wavy hair and I love the straight, slicked back look. I’ve used Pantene’s in control shaping mousse to slick my hair and it seemed to work okay, but the mousse said it was for people who had fine, limp hair that needed body. Should I continue to use this mousse or not? Second, I was watching a movie where a guy had thick wavy hair like mine and at the end he had slick straight hair. Do you have any idea what they might have used to make his hair change like that? Third, I saw this expensive gel called Phyto sculpting gel and was wondering whether it might help me acheive the slick look or whether I should buy Garnier’s Fructis wet gel, which is much cheaper.

The Right Brain tries to help:
Hi Jimmy, thanks for reading. We usually only answer questions about the science of cosmetic products not about how how to achieve a certain style or look. But since we don’t get too many questions from guys, we thought we’d answer yours anyway. So here you go…

1) People with fine thin hair often like to work mousse through their hair before blowdrying so they can get more volume. But there’s nothing wrong with using a mousse on thick wavy hair. So if you like the way Pantene works on your hair, use it!

2) We don’t know what movie you were watching, but we do know that the Hollywood stylists hired by the movie industry are granted access to secret government styling technology that will keep the movie star’s hair looking better than any product… Aww, we’re just yanking your chain! They probably just used a good gel. Which brings us to our next answer:

3) Yes, there is a difference in the way different gels hold hair. Some gels use a high resin level to give a very, very stiff hold while others add conditioning agents that make the hold feel softer. In either case, Phyto Gel is ridiculously overpriced. Shop around and you can find something much cheaper that you’ll like. Garnier’s Frucits is as good as place as any to start. If you find two different styling products that you like, you can even try mixing them for special effects.

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Is Provitamin B5 Good For Hair?

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Kelvin queries…I would like to know if Vitamin B5 (Panthenoic acid/Panthenol) plays a role in the hair conditioning (any theories behind) ? If so, how significant is it or is it the active ingredient?

The Right Brain bashes B5 a bit:
As our regular readers know, vitamins in hair care products do not really provide much of a benefit. They’re used to catch consumers’ attention and to support the story behind the product. Panthenol can be considered the king of all hair care vitamins because that’s where Pantene, one of the leading hair care brands in the world, gets its name.

Panthenol prose

In reality, Panthenol is a provitamin, not a vitamin, because it is the product of pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) and alcohol. When panthenol is metabolized by living cells, it releases Vitamin B5. But on hair, it stays in its Provitamin form. This ingredient has been used for years in hair care products because of its alleged ability to penetrate, strengthen, and thicken hair.

However, there’s not much evidence that this provitamin really has a significant effect on hair at all. The results of studies that have been done are not very clear. Why not? Well, it’s kind of messy – some tests were conducted with high concentrations of Pathenol that are not typically used in commercial products. Other studies used more appropriate levels, but let the hair soak in the solution rather than rinsing. And finally, even when used at a high enough level, even when left on hair, there’s still conflicting data whether or not it has a significant effect on hair’s tensile properties.

But back to Pantene. Surely P&G, the makers of Pantene, must have data to show how good it is on hair. You can go here to read exactly what P&G says, which is basically “it’s known for its revitalizing and conditioning effects in the hair and skin, Panthenol has humectant-like properties that promote moisture absorption…” Hmmm, we wonder , if they had solid research data would they share it publicly?

The Beauty Brains bottom line

It’s tough to find clear evidence that pathenol is really helping your hair. As we’ve discussed before, using a good conditioner and protecting your hair from damage is the best thing you can do. Vitamins like B5 don’t significantly contribute to that process. If you want to read about what panthenol really DOES do, go check it out here at PDRhealth.

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Is There A Safe Blow Dry Temperature?

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Daffodil asks…Based on one of your descriptions of heat damage, I am wondering if cool air will also do any damage by shocking the cuticle dry too quickly, and removing natural moisture. I thought cool air would be completely safe, now I’m not quite sure.

The Left Brain responds:

While it seems logical that cool air would be completely safe for your hair you have to understand that the problem is not just the temperature of the air used to dry your hair. It’s also the fact that you cycling your hair through wet and dry conditions.

Dry damaged

When hair is saturated with water the cortex (the inner protein bundles that give hair its strength) swells up. The outer protective layer of your hair, the cuticle, is not as “stretchy” as the cortex so it doesn’t swell as much. Therefore, as the inner part of the hair shaft swells it pushes the layers of cuticles outward and causes them to lift up. Then, as the hair dries, the inner part shrinks again but the cuticle doesn’t contract as much.  That’s how cycling between wet and dry hair damages the cuticle.  More rapid drying (i.e., hotter temperatures) stresses the cuticles even further but even cool blow drying can contribute to damage.

What do YOU think? Do you have any tricks for drying your hair with the least damage? Leave a comment and share your thoughts with the rest of the Beauty Brains community.

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Do LUSH Shampoos Build Up On Hair?

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Sue’s shampoo supposition…Do shampoos that don’t contain silicones also leave buildup in the hair over time? If so, what is it that builds up? I’m wondering specifically about LUSH solid shampoos. I’ve read reviews in which users complain of buildup — but of what?
The Right Brain’s reply:
In general, modern liquid shampoos don’t create a buildup problem. That’s a popular belief, but there’s very little scientific evidence to back it up. But could LUSH’s solid shampoos cause buildup? Theoretically, yes. Let’s take a look at the key ingredients in their Godiva shampoo that make this product a solid.

LUSH ingredients

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocoa Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerl Stearate & Peg – 100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid

What does this mean? Some of these ingredients like SLS, you would find in a typical liquid shampoo. But the others are waxy type ingredients that are added only to allow the shampoo to be made into a solid bar. Being waxy type materials, they are not water soluble (if they were too water soluble, the bar would fall apart in the shower the first time you used it.)

Now, since these ingredients are not water soluble, they may not rinse completely from the hair, thus causing the buildup that you mentioned. Regular liquid shampoos would not have this problem since they don’t use these kinds of ingredients. Is that bad? Wouldn’t this waxy stuff also condition your hair? Maybe, but there are much more effective conditioning materials for shampoo systems.

The Beauty Brains bottom line

Lush Shampoo Bars are very cool products – they smell great and they’re fun to use. But if you notice build up when you use them, it’s probably because of the ingredients used to make the bars solid.

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